Conquering Mt Kinabalu

It happened 31 years ago...but the memories of climbing Mt Kinabalu are still vivid in my mind.

Mt Kinabalu is 4,095 metres (13,435 ft) high at its summit, known as Low's Peak.  It is a World Heritage Site and is protected as Kinabalu National Park. 

The word "Kinabalu" is extracted from the short form for the Kadazan Dusun word "Aki Nabalu" meaning "the revered place of the dead".  It is believed that long ago, the dead were buried atop Mt Kinabalu.  To climb Mt Kinabalu, one does not require mountaineering experience, but one has to be physically fit.  Training in climbing is also highly recommended as climbing requires greater use of your quadriceps and hamstrings, among other muscles.

At Kinabalu National Park before the climb 

We arrived at Kinabalu National Park on August 29, 1981 and after a night's rest, we began the climb the next morning at around 8 a.m., accompanied by guides and porters who carried our supplies on their backs.  The porters (all youngsters) seemed like they have 3 lungs.  Some were not properly attired (like we were) to climb but they were able to sprint with the loads on their back.  We were told that they had to walk about 10 km from their respective villages just to get to work at the National Park.  

Flora along the climb

The initial part of the climb was relatively easy but as the journey wore on, it became harder - on your lungs and legs.  All of us had to carry a 5-litre supply of drinking water and some chocolates (for energy).  As we got to higher altitude, even these supplies (and the jackets we wore) felt like a burden and some wished they could throw them away!

I could remember the feeling of "oh my God...how much further?"  every time I stopped to catch my breath.  Each time I looked up, I saw a looming tower of mountain to climb.  As the journey progressed, another group behind ours who started out strumming their guitars fell quiet - and I am sure the temptation to get rid of the guitars must have been strong too!  The thin mountain air at higher altitude also caused some of us (yours truly included) to suffer from hypoxia due to lack of oxygen.  It caused drowsiness and if one stopped to rest for too long one could fall asleep.  The guides were on hand to make sure that did not happen because we had to reach the camp at Laban Rata before it got dark.

My late hubby climbing on hands and feet

Laban Rata is located at a height of about 3,000 metres.  Today, Laban Rata boasts of hotel-like facilities for climbers but back in the '80s, there were only shacks with no hot showers or food.  I remember shivering in the cold that night trying to get some sleep and sometime during the night, I was rudely awaken by a rat nibbling at my feet.  The place was infested with rats because of food left over by climbers.  We ate whatever supply we brought along - biscuits and maggi mee.  It rained that night and I thought with dread of the next morning when we have to make the final assault to the peak!

Mt Kinabalu covered in mist - as seen from the National Park

The final (and hardest) part of the climb began at 2 a.m. the next day, which fell on August 31, 1981.  We were dressed for cold weather (jackets and gloves) and each of us carried a torchlight to find our way in the dark.  The final part of the climb was on rock surfaces and having rained the night before, we had to be extra careful on the slippery rocks. 

The first part of the climb involved climbing along a ridge which had to be done in single file.  There were ropes to hold on to and as the group snaked its way on the ridge, I felt a sense of trepidation...what if someone falls off this ledge in the dark?  During the climb, one climber got cold feet and suddenly stopped in the middle of the ridge, prompting those behind her to scream...urging her to move on!

As we got higher, the rocks became steeper and the air became thinner.  I remember a couple of members in the party could not make it to the last few hundred feet because they felt too sick.  The thin mountain air caused them to be dizzy and nauseated.

As dawn arrived, I crawled on all fours to get to the peak and having reached the mountain top, I felt a sense of relief never felt before.  The quietness and majestic beauty of the mountain made me feel so small and insignificant amid Allah's creation.  Mt Kinabalu stood proudly in the dawn...a towering yet foreboding beauty!

We signed the log book to record our presence and made the journey down immediately after.  The descent had to begin the latest by 7 a.m. as it would be dangerous after that due to mist covering the mountain top.  

The descent was much harder than the ascent - as I seemed to have lost control of my thigh/leg muscles.  The path was also muddy and slippery due to rain the night before and it was hard on the knees.  Negotiating the ledge that we had climbed the night before, I was horrified to see how narrow it was.  The rocks stood 90 degrees leading to a dark chasm below!  I thought to myself that it was lucky we climbed in the dark.  Had we climbed in daylight, some people would probably have been frozen by fear!   As my legs were hurting, on the rock surfaces, I slid down on my butt rather than used my legs and by the time I reached base camp, my jeans and undies were in tatters!  My late hubby (who was then recovering from an injured ankle due to skydiving) and I were the last couple to reach the peak and to return to the National Park.

We left Kota Kinabalu on September 2 and three days later (September 5, 1981) we had our "bersanding" (marriage) ceremony. Every single bone and muscle in our bodies ached from the climb and I felt like a robot walking to the hall where the ceremony was held! 


Would I climb a mountain again?  NO...it is something I would do only once especially now that I am suffering from "knee-monia"....LOL!

The group that climbed Mt Kinabalu on August 31, 1981